Jimi X
441 Victor
re-entry
Posts: 191
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Post by Jimi X on Oct 5, 2014 10:20:01 GMT -5
I had a problem develop with my bonnie. I noticed it would pop and cut out when idling. Throttle could only be increased slowly or a loud backfire and stinky exhaust would result. I removed my carb bowls and found dirt and water in my gas. OK,...That part I can solve. My question is, "Where is the mythical inline fuel filter?" I have a rubber fuel line that leaves the petcock, travels between the carb braces, connects to a metal "T" tube (one end to each carb), but I do not see any inline filter. The manual doesn't even mention one!? Where is it? Was it something installed in later models,...My bonnie is a 2001. If this exists, I need to remove or replace it. To say my gas is FUKED would be an understatement.I'm not talking a small bit of fuel pollution,...I'm talking "MUD" in the fuel. Someones underground tank has a leak and groundwater has migrated into their system. Anyone know where this filter is,...If it does in fact exist?
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Post by ventura on Oct 6, 2014 9:16:12 GMT -5
My question is, "Where is the mythical inline fuel filter?" ...If it does in fact exist? These photos are taken of the spare carbs I have which were removed from my '05 Thruxton. The two small pencil filters are in the two t-pieces connecting the carbs............    Hope that helps! V. |
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Jimi X
441 Victor
re-entry
Posts: 191
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Post by Jimi X on Oct 6, 2014 10:42:12 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply. I did find the filter on my second inspection. The first time I disconnected the rubber line I noticed the cream colored ring but thought it was part of the carb to carb connector. Nope,...It was actually the useless line filter, half plugged, but still had let pass enough sludge and rust to block the bowl drains for my carbs. I removed my tank and disassembled the petcock. I washed out the tank of all possible rust & water. The tank dried out in the sun for 4 hours. It is now reinstalled and gassed up. I started it yesterday evening, all adjustment to the carbs responded so all is clear and functional. Today I will buy 5 meters of clear tubing to make a manometer to balance my carbs. BEWARE,... MEXICAN FUEL! Friends have told me this is to be expected. I will be paying closer attention to this condition in the future.
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Post by Blackston on Oct 15, 2014 1:08:06 GMT -5
Jimi, there are a number of inline fuel filters available on the market, some that are serviceable (you can pull them apart, clean them and put them back together). those types are really good but quite bulky…you cab get small plastic units that you place in line before the carbs and they are a throw away item…not very expensive at all
Cheers mate,
Bret... 
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Jimi X
441 Victor
re-entry
Posts: 191
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Post by Jimi X on Oct 15, 2014 14:08:18 GMT -5
I have bought a good inline filter. It is glass with chrome plated metal ends. It is cleanable and reusable. My objective is to be able to notice as early as possible when my fuel is contaminated. I would rather remove my tank and petcock, dump my fuel in a bucket and dry out my tank than to end up doing a complete carb cleaning and rebuild. If you see water after a fill-up then you know,...DO NOT SELECT THE RESERVE SETTING on the petcock. Removing the tank is an easy roadside repair compared with a carb teardown, clean and rebuild. Fuel in Mexico is "usually" perfectly OK,...But every now and then, when on the road, you get a tank of $hit.
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Jimi X
441 Victor
re-entry
Posts: 191
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Post by Jimi X on Oct 23, 2014 15:42:09 GMT -5
well,...After completely rebuilding my carbs, my bike won't start. My spark, which seemed weak, is now intermittent. I get 4 or 5 weak sparks, then a strong bright spark. This is with the spark plug removed, in the plug boot and grounded to the engine. Checked plug boot resistance, approx. 5K ohms. Plug wires .2 ohms. Checked pick-up coil cold 620 ohms. Coil, low tension is .6 ohms,...High tension, (this is interesting but possible because I can't find an internal schematic of a Gill coil) 13.6K ohms in one direction,...Reverse the meter leads and 9.7K ohms in the other. Specs on Gill coil say 8.16K ohms high tension?? I dunno',...Other coil schematics seem to tell me that the secondary coil (high tension) should read the same no matter which direction I attach my meter. Sure would prefer a bad coil over a failed igniter. I am getting a bad feeling that my igniter is past its "best before date".
I think, although I did have fuel contamination, that I have been chasing the wrong problem. 2 months ago, my engine would cut out, while still warming to operating temperature. By cut out I mean completely shut down for 1 second at 50 or 60 km while riding. It would regain combustion with a loud backfire! Sometimes it cut out while pulling away from a stop sign and turning! Damn near dropped her a couple of times! Once completely hot, It ran OK. But still,...I got this feeling something was riding off into the sunset electrically. I will check the pick-up coil gap,...Just in case I didn't tighten it up enough and the gap has changed. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Jimi X
441 Victor
re-entry
Posts: 191
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Post by Jimi X on Nov 10, 2014 14:15:26 GMT -5
Received my new Nology coil. Bike fired up 2nd try. Sounds angry from being disabled. Carbs are adjusted and balanced. Now it starts first try every time. I am on the road again.
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Post by Blackston on Nov 20, 2014 2:39:13 GMT -5
Far out dude i would have put my money on your igniter…weak spark then one good one…Mmmm…oh well, good result and your mobile mate…well done!!!…cheers bother
Bret...
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Jimi X
441 Victor
re-entry
Posts: 191
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Post by Jimi X on Nov 20, 2014 14:58:25 GMT -5
The weird thing for me was when I metered the secondary (high Tension) of the old Gill coil. I got different readings by changing the polarity of the leads. When I received my new coil, I metered the secondary and no matter which direction the meter leads were attached, the resistance was equal. Then I checked into Gill coils on a few bike sites and one poster said a Gill coil had a diode in the secondary circuit,  ...Although, I could not find a schematic to back this claim up. I also cannot understand WHY a diode would be in the secondary circuit of a coil winding. Anyhow, the igniter had me concerned but the odd secondary winding resistance told me the coil just wasn't right. Upon replacement, all is well. |
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Jimi X
441 Victor
re-entry
Posts: 191
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Post by Jimi X on Feb 28, 2015 14:27:18 GMT -5
Oh great fortune teller Blackston, any more predictions for my Bonnie? My CDI box crapped out. Yep,...Took about 2 weeks from first weird behavior to nearly impossible to start. In the end bike would not idle below 1300 rpm. Checked my pick-up coil again for resistance and gap,...even hooked my oscilloscope to the leads and checked my pulses. No problem with the pick-up coil. Good news is I got a Procom CDI box, downloaded the maps, used map profile #6, started up immediately and idled. I re-adjusted the idle to 800 rpm,...PERFECT! I slowed the idle down to stall point, just to see where it was,...Around 300 rpm. (Hard to tell, tach needle starts to bounce). The redline was factory set at 9500 rpm! Good thing I checked it. I reset it at 8500 rpm. Bike has more power,...LOTS MORE POWER!
Does anybody on this site have any experience or advice to give about Procom CDI boxes?
Got to get back on and ride her again! $hite,...It's like having a new bike!
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...Although, I could not find a schematic to back this claim up. I also cannot understand WHY a diode would be in the secondary circuit of a coil winding. Anyhow, the igniter had me concerned but the odd secondary winding resistance told me the coil just wasn't right. Upon replacement, all is well.